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When Sunday supper was served in my family’s home, someone had to drive to Owasco to pick up Gramma Lena. The first thing that came out of her mouth upon crossing the threshold was usually a question directed at my father. With her gnarled arthritic finger pointing up at him from her 4’7” perspective, she would ask in her gravelly cigarette chafed voice:
“Nicky... did you make my mushrooms?”
My Gramma’s favorite “Primo Dish”; Basically sauteed Portabella mushrooms in shallots, garlic, olive oil, and butter with a wine reduction served with Italian bread for dunking purposes. Along with bottomless glasses of Prosecco, this appetizer and it’s complimentary companion Roasted Red Pepper Salad, was and still is, the main knosh in the Rossi house before dinner proper actually commences.
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| Alice and the Caterpillar |
The ancient Egyptians (and Gramma Lena, for that matter) may have been onto something, however. They are chock full of B vitamins and minerals; including anti-oxidants like Selenium and Ergothioneine. They are natural cancer battling Aromatase inhibitors, and contain Angiogenesis inhibitors; inhibiting the formation of additional blood vessels required to feed extra fat cells and mutant cancer cells in tumors. They battle cancers and keep you thin at the same time!
If Ponce De Leone ever did discover the Mythic “Fountain of Youth”, the banks of the fountain would be lined with thousands of this edible fungi.
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| This painting by Austrian artist Eduard Veith shows a scene at the mythical Fountain of Youth. |
When Pops and I are putzing around the kitchen cooking up a batch of “Lovely Linda’s Mystical Magical Mushroom Sauce”, I sometimes prattle off some of the nutritional benefits, the surrounding science, and folkloric anecdotes associated with its main ingredient.
Quite frankly, Primo could care less about the endless chatter spewing forth from my ever churning cranial filing cabinet of pointless mushroom knowledge. As he narrows his focus and total concentration on the perfect rendition of this dish, he knows one thing: This sauce has some very deep primordial triggers, and it’s his responsibility for delivering that experience to his family and guests. He transforms himself into a perfect mix of mad scientist and a little Italian-American version of an ageless Keebler elf in perpetual motion.
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| Gaia by Anselm Feuerbach |
He suffers me gladly as I rattle off the healthful benefits and factoids on mushrooms, though. Diverting his attention for just a moment, he’ll muse matter-of-factly:
“All from a little vegga-ta-bull that grows in piles of shit in the dark of night.... How great is THAT?”
That’s his forever optimistic version of “Every Cloud has a Silver Lining” I suppose.
“Now is the time to taste the test of time, and the test of nature... all in a liddle dish; HA!!!!” ~ Poppa “Primo” Nick Rossi.
Ingredients
32oz of thickly sliced (about ¼ inch) Large White Button Mushrooms, separated in 8oz piles.
1 cup of Filippo Berio Medium Grade Olive Oil*
12 oz of Butter, cut into 3oz quarters
Salt and freshly ground black Pepper
1 good sized shallot, finely chopped
10 healthy large cloves of fresh garlic, minced through a press.
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup of unseasoned bread crumbs
15oz of Chicken Stock
1 cup Imported Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese, fresh and finely grated.*
½ cup Fresh Italian Flat Leaf Parsley, washed, towel dried, and finely chopped by hand*
1 lb Linguine Pasta
* Remember: Ingredients MAKE THE DISH. There is no substitute for real imported Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese, the right grade and quality of olive oil, fresh garlic, and properly prepped, fresh Italian flat leaf parsley. Make substitutions at your own peril, because if you do, it just won’t come out right.
Extra Gear: A blender
The Steps
Prep and Sautee the “Shroomies”
The Mystical, Magical Mushroom Tour starts in the Mystic Frying Pan. Buckle Up, Campers!
Clean and slice enough mushrooms to end up with 32oz in total and separate into four 8oz piles; or do what Primo does to save some prep time. Buy 4, 8oz containers pre-sliced. That’s a little more expensive, but it saves a whole lot of time!
You cannot, under any circumstances, “Crowd the mushrooms”. In Primo’s through -the- looking glass-world where vegga-ta-bulls have a personality and a soul, Mushroom slices need their personal and individual space. They have delicate constitutions, and a sense of entitlement, and therefore must be treated with the respect that they so richly deserve. As he says; “They can’t be magical unless they’re loose!”
As the mushrooms are sauteeing on one side, lift a few up and sneak a peek; look for for a “nice firm, brown edge” on the sautee side of a slice of ‘shroomie. Keep checking those slices for browning, and the topsides for evidence of translucence.
Sprinkle the “shroomies” with a dash of salt at this stage. That will sweat out the remaining water.
Put ¼ of the minced garlic in the “hole”, and slowly bring the heat back up to “low-medium”.... if you burn the garlic, you’ve just wasted a whole lot of time, work ,and not to mention a whole lot of “shroomies”.PHEW! Are we having fun yet?
Final Assembly: “If It Walks like a Duxelle, and Talks Like a Duxelle....You Need to Employ A Little Blender Magic”
While constantly stirring over NO HEAT:
Boil Yer Swimmers
While you are assembling the final stages of the sauce, your pasta water should be boiling at the ready. Pasta water should be “as salty as the sea”. Don’t underdo the salt!
Cook your pasta to “Al Dente” status, drain thoroughly, and put back in your pasta pot
Plate It and Serve It Up!
For one brief shining moment, as you and your guests quietly savor the flavor, remember: You are now eating the food of the Goddess Gaia, and in that moment, you will fleetingly experience the feeling of being immortal.
Fleeting, yes, but well worth seeking, and seeking repetitively.
Mangia Bene!
[Watch the Video Tutorial for "Rossi's Lovely Linda's Mystical, Magical Mushroom Sauce"]
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| “Respect the Mushroom”~ Poppa Primo |